Chicken oysters and "idiots"

Hello Foodies,

Consider the chicken. No matter where your travels take you, you are sure to find chicken on the menu. In Italy, they cacciatore it. In Japan, they soy it. In the southern USA, they flour it and fry it and in Germany they brost it. In any case, it's a universal dish that's usually "safe" to order. Of course, no matter where you order it or how it's fixed, we all have our preferred piece. Breast? Leg? Thigh? Or perhaps, on the more wild side, the liver, heart. My mom tells me that she would fry the heart for me to snack on while she prepared her Sunday roasted chicken. I've out grown the heart, in my house it's now a cat-snack greeted with joyous meows and 'you'll be my friend forever' leg rubs.

What we don't normally consider about the chicken (at least in the US) is the breed. In France, breeds are extremely important and every region usually has it's preferred type. The chicken pin-up you see pictured here is the "gold-standard" Bresse chicken. This red, white and blue beauty is raised according to very strict standards and only in the area surrounding the town of Bourg-en-Bresse. When you are in France you may see poulet de Bresse on the menu followed by a very high price. And although I'm sure that many French have preferred pieces, usually you'll be served a half chicken with both dark and white meat.

The French, however, have one part of the chicken, the most tender and prized piece, that they have kept secret. I discovered it by chance one day at a classic French restaurant in Angers, Lucullus. On the menu the day we visited I saw poulet de Bresse and sot l'y laisse (pronounced soh lee less)offered as one of the specials of the day. I was intrigued. I had never heard of this type of 'preparation' and thought perhaps it was special to the Anjou region. I asked Mme. Houssay.

"No." she explained. "It is not a special preparation, it is the back of the chicken. Very tender, very special part, the absolute best part."

Hmm, the 'back' of the chicken, of course I had to try it. And she was right, these small oval pieces were melt-in-the-mouth tender and delicious. But I still wasn't sure exactly how this was the 'back' of the chicken and went on a little fact finding chicken chase. I discovered that these pieces are called the "oysters" in English. These small, very tender oysters are located in the hollow of the iliac bones just above the tail. As for the French name for this delicacy, sot l'y laisse, literally translated means "only an idiot leaves it there"...kinda tells you just how choice this part of the chicken is, doesn't it? So, the next time you're in France, scrutinize the menu and hope that you find sot l'y laisse featured the day you are there and of course you'll order it, won't you?

Enjoy!!

Debra

The One That Didn't Get Away!

Hello Foodies,

Last week I was in Marzamemi, near Siracusa in Sicily. Paradise.

For Andrea Camilleri’s book and TV series, Inspector Montalbano, aficionados, this is one of the locations on the show.

Commissario Montalbano.

If you remember from my last post, I was with my friends, Alessandro and Vesna, the newlyweds who asked TDF to plan their honeymoon. We stayed in a couple of charming mini-apartments in the old tonnara, only 10 meters from the sea. I have never seen a more star-filled sky than the one we enjoyed here!

Getting to more serious stuff...behind our apartments were a few interesting restaurants, including the renowned Taverna la Cialoma (on left) and La Balata, but I felt I needed to offer Alessandro and Vesna something really special.

So the next morning I woke up very early and went onto our terrace to look at the sea and just waited, and waited, and waited. Finally around 9:30 am, I saw the first fishing boat returning to the harbor. Although the harbor was literally less than 50 meters from my terrace, I ran because I wanted to be the first one to get to that boat. Using my still pretty good Sicilian dialect (I am from the west side of the Island in Palermo where we speak differently from the easterners), I asked the Captain what he had caught. His first answer was depressing: “Nothing, only some pesce di brodo", or fish only good to prepare a soup, meaning any type of fish that is full of bones, or fish with not enough meat, or not tasty enough, or all of these things put together. Having had previous experience with Sicilian fishermen, I told them how we came all the way from New York just to stay here and to taste the famous fish from Marzamemi and that my friends were just married, etc., etc.!

Finally, one of the other men said to the Captain, "C’mon, give it to him…” I was already excited because I knew what that meant. Then the captain uncovered a secret section of the boat, where there were, in order: the freshest triglie (mullet) I have ever seen (and later ate) in my life; a wonderful swordfish; and 2 boxes of gamberoni (shrimp). I almost fainted. I filled up two bags and ran back to the apartment shouting! I woke up my friends who thought I had gone crazy. I explained to them that I had just gotten the “special” fish, the ones that fisherman will not usually sell to you, either because it is already sold to the best restaurants who pay a lot of money for it, or because they keep it to eat themselves.

That night, we grilled the “special” fish on a barbecue, which I prepared using wood, adding only salmoriglio (a mixture of olive oil, fresh lemon, oregano, and salt). We drank an excellent local wine called, Inzolia, chilled to perfection. We were in heaven.

This time, I have to conclude with a, "Grazie, Capitano!"

Enjoy,

Giuseppe

Stay Close to AFAR!

Hello Foodies,

You all know that we are big proponents of experiential travel and we have found a kindred spirit. TDF is excited to tell you about a new travel magazine, called AFAR!

We enjoyed meeting the founders, Greg Sullivan and Joe Diaz, last week at an event promoting the pilot of a possible new travel show called, Confessions of a Travel Writer.

For these two, experiential travel is a way of life. The idea for a travel magazine came as they were enjoying a Kingfisher beer on a beach in Goa, India.


The mission for Afar is simple and wonderful - to inspire and guide those who travel the world seeking to connect with its people, experience their culture, and understand their perspectives.

When I asked Joe what the response has been like in launch week, he said, "The response to AFAR is overwhelming. It reinforces the notion that there is a need for a travel magazine like this in the marketplace--one that connects you to the people and cultures of the world. To see readers resonating with AFAR is quite rewarding."

Get your self a copy off a newstand for $4.99 as this new mag is scheduled to be published six times per year. Or get a free issue by visiting their website, click here. To continue with all things AFAR, don't forget to check out their blog, click here.

Enjoy,

Lisa

Bonjour to Breakfast and More in France

Hello Foodies,

If you’ve been to France, you know that in French culture, eating is not just about sustenance, it’s about total pleasure of the palate. That’s part of a joie de vivre and l'art de vivre that we Americans (most of us anyway) envy. You know, too, about Julia Child’s impact in the 60’s and 70’s on the American view of French food and style. And, unless you’ve been hiding in a cave, the re-impact she has on us today, thanks to Julie Powell, Nora Ephron, and Meryl Streep.

Like Julia, I had been singing the praises of “all things French” for years - the language, the culture, the people, and the food. But it wasn’t until a few years ago that I had my French lifestyle epiphany. Unlike Julia Child’s, my awakening didn’t occur in France, it was at home in the U.S.A with my colleague from France, Patricia, who was staying with me for a week. The mornings were rushed and I ate my breakfast (coffee and a granola bar) in the car while we were driving to work.

On the fourth day of her visit she said, “Kathy this is so wrong, what you’re doing each morning. You must take the time to enjoy your breakfast. I don’t understand this American way of eating breakfast in the car. This is not healthy. Each day is a new beginning – don’t you want to begin it with contemplation and enjoyment of your food?”

Her words made me realize all the more what I love about the French. It’s their ability to slow down their pace of life– at least much more than Americans – for the enjoyment and pleasure of food. I felt like I’d discovered the true soul of France through Patricia’s words.

As the success of the book and movie, "Julie and Julia" continues to draw attention to French food and France, we foodies at Tour de Forks are dishing about travel to “fork-friendly” France – Julia’s spiritual homeland. We’ve designed an epicurean tour of her Paris and Provence. From the city life of Paris to the peace and quiet of Provence, you can shift gears and open your senses to life in “la belle France.” In Paris, stay where Julia and her husband stayed, at the luxurious Pont Royal Hotel.

In Provence, visit her farmhouse home of La Pitchoune, now a cooking school run by Kathie Alex, “Cooking in France with Friends.” This kind of séjour inspires the pleasure of the palate, even when you’re back in the U.S. – because no matter where you are in the world, you can enjoy the infinite pleasures of the table. I’m trying to do just that, thanks to Patricia’s words of wisdom.

Merci mille fois to my friend Patricia for sending me the book, Petite philosophie du matin –pensées positives, which I translate as Positive Little Thoughts for Each Morning. Yes, I do read it every morning as I sit with my tasse de café. Still, I need many more trips to France to re-enforce my “positive thoughts.” See you in France and bon appétit!

Enjoy!

Kathy

P.S. Thank you to the Pont Royal and Kathie Alex for the photos.

Ladies United for the Preservation of Endangered Cocktails

Hello Foodies,

So, a few weeks ago, I stopped in at Drink, Boston’s celeb chef Barbara Lynch’s new temple to the cocktail. Ensconced in the city’s emerging Fort Point neighborhood, its brick and beamy, and its basement level ambiance gives a nod to the speakeasies of yore. I ordered my personal fave, a Sidecar and then observed. Cocktails here are a serious business. There is no scooping of cubes out of a bin; the barkeeps hack and crack ice off of a block. And there is all sorts of herb (all plucked from pots) muddling, mixing, stirring, and shaking going on. Quite a production, and fun to watch. Was it good? You betcha. Was it it the best I ever had? Nah…but it was in the top ten.

But, wait, there’s more: I was reintroduced to our bartender, one Misty Kalkofen, via a picture and article, in the August 09 issue of Bon Appetit. I garnered two interesting factoids - she is a former student at Harvard Divinity School, and she founded the Boston chapter of the Ladies United for the Preservation of Endangered Cocktails. Who knew there was such a thing? It celebrates the art of classic cocktails and raises money for Women’s charities. Kudos Ms. Kalkofen. She also shared a great quote: “Who loves not woman, wine and song remains a fool his whole life long.” – Martin Luther. Love it.

Check out its website www.lupec.org to learn what its about and lots of fascinating lore – and recipes. Of course, the Sidecar is included.

Sidecar

• 3/4 ounces Cointreau
• 3/4 ounces brandy
• 3/4 ounces lemon juice

In mixing glass or shaker filled with ice, combine Cointreau, brandy, and lemon juice, and shake vigorously. Wet rim of a 3- to 4-ounce cocktail glass and place on a lightly sugared plate. Strain liquor into the glass and serve.

Enjoy,

Connie Walsh

Grazie, Mamma!

Hello Foodies!

Last Saturday, I finally arrived in Palermo after having been away for almost 10 months. This time around I am traveling with my family but I am also escorting my newly married friends, Alessandro and Vesna. They asked Tour De Forks to organize their honeymoon in Sicily!

As we were making arrangements for their honeymoon, I thought that it would be nice to spend the first night having dinner in my parents' home, overlooking the Gulf of Mondello in Palermo. So I told my mother to organize a dinner for us, and she said, “Sure, but given you will be jet lagged, I will just prepare a light dinner!” And so she did: Antipasti of mixed vegetables fried in pastella, anelletti al forno, couscous tamboulet with zucchini and tomatoes, scaloppini with mushrooms, and caponata. A very chilled white wine called, Colomba Platino, helped us during dinner, which was very light indeed!

After that, frutta mista (I forgot how delicious the peaches in Sicily are) and watermelon tronchetto gelato (a type of gelato cake).

It felt really nice to be home again. Plus it was also a fantastic start for Alessandro’s and Vesna’s honeymoon (by the way, they are in Marina di Ragusa today, and we will meet them again on Friday at the San Domenico hotel in Taormina.

Stay tuned for more surprises…I almost forgot to say: Thank you, Mamma!!

Enjoy,

Giuseppe

Julia Child and the Miller's Wife

Hello Foodies,

We have jumped on Julia¹s bandwagon this week and are eagerly anticipating the new movie, Julie & Julia appearing in a theatre near you (and me) on August 7th. The reviews, especially of Ms. Streep's portrayal of Julia Child have been favorable. Interviews with the stars covering everything from food to marriage have kept us entertained and piqued everyone¹s interest in Julia Child and her life in France. Restaurants in Chicago are paying homage to her by featuring recipes from her book from steak au poivre to a classic clafoutis. I can¹t help but feel a frisson of excitement for the renewed interest in French food and France.

For Julia her love affair with France started with a simple meal, actually a meal of sole meunière at La Couronne in Rouen (pictured here and still in business). I call this the ultimate in French "fast food". Why? Because the recipe is quick, requires simple ingredients that you usually have on hand and yet delivers a mouthful of flavor. A la meunière means "in the miller's wife's style", which means there will be flour in the recipe. Et voilà, the recipe, adapted from one of Julia¹s heros, Auguste Escoffier:

According to Escoffier this excellent mode of procedure will work with any small fish or slices of larger ones:

Sole (if you can afford it, or find it!) or any other white fish

Butter

Lemon, salt, pepper, parsley

Season the fish with a few drops of lemon juice, salt and pepper. While doing that, start heating your pan. Dip the fish in some flour, shaking to remove the excess. Melt some butter in the pan and when it starts to foam, place fish in the pan. Cook until browned on one side. Turn and brown the other side. Remove from pan, place on the serving dish. Wipe out the frying pan. Sprinkle the fish with a few drops of lemon juice and chopped parsley. Right before serving the fish, place some butter in the hot pan and heat it until it starts to brown SLIGHTLY. Pour the butter over the fish and serve immediately.

Celebrate with Julia this week before or after the movie and try your own version of Sole meunière, the first dish Julia enjoyed in France and according to her changed her life. In fact, she loved it so much she ate it 3 more times the first week she lived in Paris. . . et comme Julia a dit toujours, Bon Appétit!

Enjoy,

Debra

A Lone Blogging Fork No More!

Hello Fellow Forks,

Welcome to the Tour de Forks family! You're one of us and it's time you get to know us better. Here's how - from now on, each of us will be blogging and you'll know who blogs by the signature. Before it was just me, the lone blogging fork.

You'll soon meet our French specialists, Debra Fioritto and Kathy Morton, our Sicilian ex-pat and world traveler, Giuseppe Ricotta, our veteran travel maven, Connie Walsh, and myself, Lisa Goldman - a co-founding fork with head fork, Melissa Joachim.

We will continue to give you the inside scoop on restaurants, food products, the many places Tour de Forks visits on our tours, chef interviews, our recommendations, and anything else that lands on our plates to share with you!

Speaking of scoops, Mary Taylor Simeti writes about Sicilians loving gelato so much, they eat it for breakfast. Check it out here. Mary visits with our tour groups to Sicily and takes us to the food market prior to a special lunch with her.

Enjoy,

Lisa