Izakaya Invasion

Hello Foodies,

On a recent trip to Melbourne, Australia last month, Lisa and I were treated to a new (for us) style of Japanese eating called izakaya. Izakaya in Japan were originally street-food stalls or carts for quick-snacking or drinking. These days they are more like taverns, with retro-rustic décor or stylish high-end lounges. Drinking and eating Japanese small plates, often at communal tables is the essence of the experience. Melbourne currently has five ‘izakaya’ destinations, and the one we visited was En Izakay in Carlisle St, Balaclava, an up and coming food neighborhood in the food-obsessed city of Melbourne.

En Izakay is welcoming and stylish. The menu is dotted with unusual ingredients such as the yam-like konnyaku root (also known as devil's tongue and voodoo lily) and ao-ogo seaweed. There are interesting combinations too, such as nori-wrapped tofu, ricotta and olive spring rolls, or that ao-ogo used in a salad with wakame and akanori seaweeds, lettuce, tomato, cucumber and, somewhat oddly, saganaki cheese.

Honey is also used extensively here to dress oven-baked cod, marinate ox tongue before it is barbecued, or to accompany soy and mirin in the cooking gravy for braised pork belly. We sampled the tongue and the pork belly. Delicious.

The must-have dish here is the oven-baked tofu and eggplant. Thick slices of both are placed together to create a mouthful of slippery textures. The tofu's interior is almost custardy, the eggplant creamy, with the sweet pungency of white miso. It's like taking that classic of baked eggplant (nasu dengaku), stripping away the skin and adding another layer of soft, textural excitement. I highly recommend it. We drank an aromatic reisling with our meal that was a perfect match. Next time you’re in Melbourne, go there!

Enjoy,

Melissa

"Wish You Were Here"

Hello Foodies,

"Gorgeous! Beautiful! Wish you were here," enthuses Meg Ryan in French Kiss, as she walks up a cobblestone street in a small Provencale Village.

I recently sat down to re-watch French Kiss, one of my all-time favorite movies. I enjoy watching Kevin Kline who plays a disheveled looking arrogant French guy. Yes, I'm a sucker for romantic comedies - but what I love most about this movie is the location. The pictures and scenery of Paris and the French countryside. For this particular viewing though I had a goal. I wanted to see if the village I had recently visited in Provence was in fact the village in the movie.

You might remember the scene, Meg Ryan and Kevin Kline are sitting in a small square as she recuperates from an attack of lactose intolerance. She had enjoyed too much of the French cheese on the train ride. Suddenly, a Mercedes careens around the corner, a man jumps out and he and Kevin Kline begin fighting. The scene was shot in front of the Cafe des Arcades and the Hotel des Armoiries – both face the square and can be clearly seen in the movie.

How did I learn about this? I can thank Kathie Alex, who lives in Plascassier, another tiny town adjacent to Valbonne. Kathie lives at La Pitchoune – the house that Julia and Paul Child had built for the times they spent in her spiritual homeland. It's on the property once owned by Simone Beck, who was a close friend of Julia's and a mentor for Kathie. Kathie now offers cooking classes in the small charming home.

Kathie and I were talking about the town of Valbonne and its charms. Then, she mentioned the Cafe and the hotel – where French Kiss was filmed. I almost jumped out of my chair! I couldn't wait to check out the square. I remembered the scene, but didn't remember the background exactly...even though I've watch the movie more times than I should admit.

A short ten minute drive from Plascassier and I was there, enjoying a meal in the Cafe des Arcades, gazing out at the square toward the Hotel des Armoires waiting for Kevin and Meg to come sauntering up the cobblestone street. As I sipped my wine, I could hear Meg, "Gorgeous! Beautiful! Wish you were here!"

We visit Valbonne, Plascassier and other small Provencale villages as we follow in Julia Child's footsteps on our Julia & Julie Tour. Think about joining us in 2010.

Enjoy!

Kathy

A Portuguese-Inspired Food Paradise!

Hello Foodies,

We went to a fabulous restaurant this week called Aldea. Chef George Mendes (pictured far right with TDF alum, Karin Lundell in the middle and TDF Prez, Melissa Joachim on left) named his new restaurant after the Portuguese word for village. The restaurant’s menu is inspired by the Iberian Peninsula and Georges’ heritage. He is a first-generation American born to Portuguese parents and he grew up with many elaborate, festive family meals. The interior design is of modern elegance. George is quite a skilled chef and learned his craft from a diverse group of chefs that includes David Bouley, Martin Berasategui in Spain, Alain Passard at Arpege in Paris, Alain Ducasse, and Kurt Gutenbrunner. You savor every mouthful and everything was so perfectly seasoned that I never even thought about going for the salt and pepper. And I admit it, I usually do.

Take a look at George's exquisite food...

For a pestiscos or small bite, we tried the Sea Urchin Toast with cauliflower cream, sea lettuce, and lime.




Our fave appetizer is the Shrimp Alhinho with garlic, coriander, pimenton, and pressed jus.






One of our delicious mains was the Arroz de Pato, like a duck paella, that had duck confit, chorizo, olive, and duck cracklings in it.

The other main courses we enjoyed were New Bedford Diver Scallops with farro risotto and Creekstone Farm's Hanger Steak and Short Rib with tamarind, red-wine shallot, and fall bean salad.

The address is 1 West 17th Street, New York, NY 10011 and the phone to make your reservation is: 212- 675-7223 and you will be glad you did. George Mendes' food is divine.

Enjoy,

Lisa

America's Got TALENTI!

Hello Foodies,

Recently, I was in Washington, DC speaking at a conference and I met Fred Neubauer, who heads up the sales and marketing for a wonderful new gelato and sorbetto, called TALENTI. Gelato is my favorite dessert and I'm always eager to try a new one.

Fred was nice enough to send me 9 pints to test and did we ever - Tahitian Vanilla Bean, Belgium Milk Chocolate, Caribbean Coconut, Double Dark Chocolate, Caramel Cookie Crunch gelato and Roman Raspberry, Sonoma Strawberry, Hill Country Peach Champagne, and Blood Orange sorbetto!

We decided it best for us not to be the only tasters so we brought in the pros. First is Rachel Kloss - 20-something artist, production guru, dog and gelato lover and her #1 fave is the Blood Orange!

Pictured above is Pamela Abbott, Executive Content Producer, Online Media for Food & Wine and her hubby, Eric Abbott, who is about to launch a new advice site for guys called AskEric.com. They loved the Caribbean Coconut, Tahitian Vanilla, the Double Dark Chocolate and all the sorbettos.

The Forks opinions go like this - for prez Melissa Joachim, her hands down favorite is the Double Dark Chocolate. I always use vanilla as my yardstick because I think it's tough to make a good one and TALENTI'S is great - clean vanilla taste and not too sweet. I also love the Blood Orange sorbetto.

This product also gets points for the packaging. TALENTI comes in clear containers so you can see its contents. The twist-on top make them great to keep even after the gelato is gone but don't wait too long. Visit www.talentigelato.com to order TALENTI online or find out the store nearest you that carries it! You can also read about TALENTI's history and why it's good for you.

Enjoy,

Lisa

Il Girasole Restaurant: A Sicilian Surprise

Hello Foodies,

Last month my parents went to visit our family's farm, la Garcitella near Valledolmo, about 90 Km away from Palermo.
They went with a group of their close friends, who wanted to take a break from the city and spend some time in the countryside. The good news was that some of the farmer's relative had recently open a new restaurant in town, Il Girasole, so it was a good occasion to try it. The outcome was surprising.

Chef Rosario Mule' prepared a meal based on:
Mixed vegetables;
Spaghetti alla norma;
Penne with almond sauce;
Mixed barbecue of lamb chops, sausages, and pork chops;
Cannoli for dessert.

Now, if you have been following us, you know that my mother is a good cook, so she is not easily impressed when we she goes to eat out (you don't want to know how many times I heard her saying "non mi piace" - I don't like it - when I took her to some of the best restaurants in New York City...). But this time, she was pleased with the simplicity, freshness, and taste of this meal.

Mr. Mule' and his wife and daughters (who help manage the restaurant) really do a great job offering some of the most authentic tastes of Sicilian food, all prepared with organic produce, at a moderate price. Now, this is a restaurant where you go to eat, not to hang out and be cool, so the decor is simple. But if you trust my mom, like I do, make sure to pay a visit next time you are in Sicily.

Ciao!

Giuseppe

Chez Julia Child: La Pitchoune and Le Cordon Bleu

Hello Foodies,

Debra and I recently traveled through France to pave the way for our new tour, “A Taste of Julia Child’s Paris and Provence.” We were slightly surprised, after meeting with directors of various Offices of Tourism, lots of chefs and local farmers and producers, that we had to explain who Julia Child was. But, there were two exceptions: a formidable meeting with the current owner of “La Pitchoune” - where Julia lived in Provence and a delightful day at Le Cordon Bleu – the school where Julia began her love affair “with French food - the tastes, the processes, the history, the endless variation, the rigorous discipline, the creativity, the wonderful people, the equipment , the ritual.”

After two weeks of traveling in Paris, Marseille, Nice and small towns like Les Baux de Provence, Brignoles, Grasse, Mougins, La Napoule, Villeneuve-Loubet, we spent one rainy evening near the small town of Valbonne, at the residence of Kathie Alex, a casually sophisticated California chef who now calls” La Pitchoune” and France her home. “La Peetch,” as Julia so lovingly referred to it, is the Provencal residence built by Julia and her husband Paul. Now Kathie Alex offers weekly cooking classes there, www.cookingwithfriendsinfrance.com, where she shares techniques gleaned from Simone Beck, Julia Child’s very close friend and writing partner. We enjoyed a cup of tea with Kathie - sitting around the wooden dining room table, discussing topics and tales of the culinary kind: it was a “pinch me” moment. I was sitting in Julia Child’s house, the very same house where her overnight guests included James Beard and M.F.K. Fisher. A warm, welcoming home where culinary and personal memories became part of her book, My Life in France. A place I hope to come back to soon for a week’s worth of my own memorable culinary experiences

Just a few days later we were back in Paris at Le Cordon Bleu – where Julia said she was “in pure flavorful heaven.” Her first real course there was “made up of eleven former GI’s – like a boy’s club that she had invaded.” Our one-day class, “In Honor of Julia Child,” consisted of about 22 women and 3 men from Germany, Israel, England, United States and Spain - all eager to ask questions and learn more. What a day of learning, cooking and conversation this was!

In his cooking demonstration, Chef Frederic Lesourd, our chef and teacher for the day, joked with the audience and teased with his translator, Deborah Johnson (an enthusiastic transplanted American in Paris). While he paid homage to Julia Child’s culinary talents, he also lightened up the calories in Julia’s recipes. Acknowledging today’s enlightened palate, Chef Frederic stayed true to Cordon Bleu philosophy: he taught us techniques and encouraged us to experiment (à la Julia) by adding different ingredients and playing with the spices.

He deftly demonstrated how to make Petits Chaussons au Roquefort (pastry turnovers with Roquefort cheese), Navarin Printanier (lamb stew with fresh vegetables) and Mousseline au Chocolat (chocolate mousse). After lots of cuisine questions and answers, we were hustled into a working kitchen, where each of us had our own stations. We donned our Cordon Bleu aprons and slung a Cordon Bleu towel through the belt. Then we began trimming the fat from a lamb shoulder. The knives were so sharp; it made the job much easier than expected. (I bought some Wusthof knives after the class). At the suggestion of one of our classmates, the chef opened a bottle of red wine, then another…then another. We did manage to pour some of it into the Navarin Printanier.…..As Julia said, “What fun!”

For Julia Child, her classes at Le Cordon Bleu were “a catalyst.” My one-day course was an inspiration for me to return home and make Navarin Printanier chez moi – I had never made lamb before this experience. I invited friends for dinner, put on my Cordon Bleu apron and towel and began to play with spices, ingredients and my own ideas, using the techniques I learned from Chef Frederic. Et voila! – Navarin Printanier was a hit with my guests. (The recipe will be posted soon)

Like Julia Child, I felt like I was in pure flavorful heaven at Le Cordon Bleu. You can have the same fun experience when you sign up for our “A Taste of Julia Child’s Paris and Provence.” After a tour like this, you’ll come home with all types of culinary bragging rights – and your own Cordon Bleu apron and towel as souvenirs of an epicurean adventure in Julia Child’s footsteps. Bon appetit!

Enjoy!
Kathy

Paris, Provence...Parsnips?

Hello Foodies!

Bonjour from Paris and Provence. Kathy and I just finished a whirlwind trip through Paris and Provence polishing the Julia & Julie Tour. Kathy, our resident fashionista, noted that THE color for this season is purple. We saw the color in all forms from A-line skirts to vests and for women and men. Not only was it the star in clothing boutique windows, it was also prominent in home decor. So, pick up something purple today.

Since I'm much more foodie than fashionista, I was on the look-out for the new trend in food in France. It hit me in Marseille ~ it's parsnips. This humble vegetable or légume oublié as the French say, found its way onto our plates from Paris to Provence.

At Lapérouse, Paris, it was roasted and served with Bresse chicken. In Les Baux, at Benvegudo, it was sautéed and served with guinea fowl. In Marseille at Les Arcelnaux, we were served parsnip crisps. We also had it as soup and puréed.

I was so excited to see parsnips everywhere. For a long time, it has been one of my favorites and I always include it on my Thanksgiving table. Here's your chance to try it and be as au courant as the starred chefs in France. To ease you into the mood, try my recipe for Roasted Parsnip, Carrot and Tomato soup this weekend. Then, stay tuned and I'll deliver another parsnip recipe that will be perfect for your festive feast.

Enjoy!
Debra

The Reign (of) Spain is far from the Plain

Hello Foodies

According to many foodies Spanish cuisine is the most innovative around. (Our two French forks probably don't agree). On October 6th, we had the opportunity to test that theory at the James Beard House. Chef Javier Nuñez and other officials from the Castilla y León area of Spain introduced us to the culinary treasures of their region. Chef Nuñez has been taking León around the world, demonstrating his recipes using the products of the area to Tokyo, Copenhagen, London and now, New York.

The 7-course tasting menu included many of these products: bacalo (dried cod), chickpeas, goat cheese...don't fret...as simple as they sound in this list, Chef Nuñez brought them to new heights with his unique flavor combinations. Here's a run down of our menu:

• Roasted Peppers with octopus and shallots
• Sahagún Leeks Soup with marinated/smoked Trout and Quail Eggs
• Chickpeas with Quail and Foie Gras
• Cod with Cabbage and Arriero Garlic Bacon
• Carrilleral al Vino Prieto-Picado and Lentil Minestrone
• Valdeleon Cheese with Reinette Apples
• Chocolate Flan with Citrus

Your mouth should be watering by now. We relished it all but what actually blew our socks off was the "Rara Avis" wine from vintner Raúl Perez Pereira. The tastebuds tingle just thinking about it. We are on the hunt for it now - before the world discovers it. Unfortunately, that may not be long. We just found out that Robert Parker has discovered it -- and awarded it a 96. We think it is a 100. Another of Perez Pereira's wines, "Ultreia de Valtuille" was given a 99. Go forth and seek them out!

One little thing did bother us. The chef came out after the meal and spoke to all of us. It was, of course, in Spanish but there was no translator and no one at our table spoke Spanish. We hope that he enjoyed cooking the meal as much as we enjoyed eating it.

Enjoy!

The New York Forks

From Katia at loveSicily Cookery School!

Hello Foodies,

Good quality food has always been a central element in my family life. My grandparents taught us all about the joy of sharing with others and Nonna Elvira was never jealous of her recipes. My mother and my aunt, have often taken notes while Nonna Elvira was cooking. Over the years, they used to talk about Nonna's precious recipe books but we seemed to have lost most of them.

One day, while we were emptying the house, before beginning the restoration project to turn it into our cookery school, I found her books and notes in one of the bottom drawers of her kitchen. I cannot describe the joy! These books are the best family legacy and even my daughter now is tasting her great-grandmother's food. I am sure Nonna Elvira would be very happy to share her version of "Calamari Ripieni" (stuffed calamari) with you.

CALAMARI RIPIENI DELLA NONNA

30 minutes preparation time: 40 minutes cooking time

Ingredients:

4 calamari
2-3 tomatoes
3 onions
3 tbsp Parsley
1 tbsp Garlic
2 slices of bread (possibly from the day before)
2-3 eggs
4 tbsp Olive oil

Clean the calamari, remove the tentacles and set aside.
Blanch the tomatoes, remove their skins, seeds and chop them.
Chop the onion and tentacles and mix with the chopped tomatoes.
Sauté the mixture in olive oil and set aside
Crumble the soft part of the bread into a large mixing bowl and soak in water or milk
Add it to the mixture of onion, tentacles, and tomatoes together with 4 tbsp olive oil, 3 tbsp chopped parsley, and 1 tbsp finely chopped garlic.
Stir the mixture and add also beaten eggs, just to keep the filling moist, salt and pepper.
Stuff the calamari, close using a toothpick and place in a tray with a splash of good white wine. Then place in a preheated oven at 180°C for 30 minutes.
Cover the tray with a lid for the first 15 minutes, then remove for the remaining cooking time.

Extra tips: If you have any mixture for the filling left over, smear it onto the stuffed calamari after you remove the lid on the tray. I like to add also a tbsp chopped capers and chilly pepper to the mixture and, usually, sprinkle the calamari with toasted breadcrumbs just before serving them.

As a side dish I suggest a nice potato and topinambur (Jerusalem artichoke) pureè, sprinkled with chopped sun-dried tomatoes in olive
oil.

Hope you enjoy it!

Katia
loveSicily

Take me out to the ball game...to eat!

Hello Foodies,

As a recently nationalized American citizen, I felt it was my civic duty to attend a baseball match. Mind you, I’m not big on spectator sports but if Ken Burns can make a PBS doco about it, it must be worth looking into.

So, last Saturday, we joined our dear friends and TDF alum, Jackie and Dan for an afternoon at the new Citi Field Stadium in Queens for a Mets game. Don't ask me anything about the score or who was playing but the food, I can tell you about!

These were the places we snacked at for seven innings:

Catch of the Day – Dave Pasternack, Executive Chef at Esca, is behind this seafood shack. A lobster roll was our choice and we all agreed it was the best we’d ever tasted-anywhere! Served on a brioche hotdog roll with sweet, tender lobster, at $17–an expensive snack but well worth the price.

El Verano – Floyd Cardoz, executive chef of Indian food at Tabla, champions this taqueria. We tried the soft tacos with chili marinated skirt steak and roasted tomato salsa. I was disappointed by the steamed corn tortillas but the meat was tasty.

Blue Smoke’s pulled pork sandwich was the highlight for me. For $9.00, it was stuffed with suculent, tender pork and crunchy sweet pickles. The slightly sweet brioche bun was a good complement to the pork. Danny Myer not only has a Blue Smoke stand but also a Shake Shack at the stadium.

Box Frites – Robb Garceau is behind this frites factory. The fries are quite thick and crispy. We tried the chipotle mayo and chili salsa sauces. Delicious!

We made it back to our seats for the 8th inning and then the Mets won. However the beauty of Citi Field is that you can see the game from anywhere in the stadium. So thanks Jackie and Dan for my first eating, hmm, I mean baseball game.

If you're headed to a ball game, go hungry!

Enjoy,

Melissa

Creamy Normandy Chicken

Hello Foodies,

Since we've been talking about Normandy's culinary contributions, here's a recipe for Poulet Vallée d’Auge -a fantastic and easy recipe for chicken - made with fiery Calvados and cider for that special Normandy flavor.

This is one of my top five ways to prepare chicken. Friends and family “ooh and ahh” every time I make it! The sauce makes a perfect “gravy” for mashed potatoes (my favorite comfort food) or noodles. Rice goes very well with the chicken, too. The Calvados liqueur and cider give it that special Normandy flavor. Very easy and oh so savory. Yummy!

4 chicken breasts

6 tablespoons unsalted butter

¾ lb mushrooms, cleaned and sliced

1 cup apple cider (unsweetened, if possible)

4 oz. Calvados liqueur

2 shallots, minced

1 egg yolk

1 c fresh cream

salt and pepper to taste

1. Sprinkle the chicken with salt and pepper.
2. Melt 3 tablespoons of butter in a pan, sauté the chicken until golden brown on both side
3. Pour the Calvados over the chicken and carefully flambé (ignite and let it burn out)
4. Add the minced shallots and cider, cover and simmer for 20 minutes, or until tender, stirring occasionally
5. While chicken is cooking, sauté the mushrooms in a tablespoon of butter for a few minutes (don’t overcook)
6. Lightly beat the egg yolk into the cream
7. 5 minutes before the chicken is done, add the mushrooms and the cream mixture, stirring and
taking care not to let it boil

Serve with: a green veggie like asparagus or broccoli and potatoes, rice or noodles.

Enjoy!

Kathy

Five Foodie Reasons to Visit Normandy

Hello Foodies,

Fall will be nipping at our noses soon as our taste buds start to tingle at the thought of crisp apples, pears, pumpkins. At this time of year, my thoughts and taste buds long for Normandy because:

1. The Big Cheese
Yes, Normandy is intimately identified with cheese, especially the iconic Camembert. Let's look beyond the Camembert to a couple of even more ancient cheeses from Normandy. At the Domaine St. Hippolyte, they have a mission to keep the artisanal making of Livarot, Pont L'Eveque, and Pavé d'Auge alive. In fact, they even raise the race of Normand cows to provide the milk.

2. Local Brew
The Route du Cidre makes a tasty circle around the Auge region. Follow the signs and discover how apples are transformed into heavenly brews from the crispest apple juice to cider and finishing with fiery calvados. At the end of the tour be sure to stop at Les Bruyères and indulge in M. Harfaux's tasting menu paired with a different cider for each course.

3. Food Heroines
Take a cooking course or book a room chez Sophie Dudemaine, France's Queen of cuisine. Or schedule a stop on Rue Tatin and learn a few specialties from Susan Hermann Loomis.

4. Eat & Sleep in Sir Lancelot's Forest
Located just outside the spa town of Bagnoles de l'Orne, the Manoir de Lys, offers a bucolic quiet, with exceptional service and captivating cuisine based on the products from the forest.

5. Classic Cocktails
Visit the Benedictine factory located in a palace. Benedictine is made from a secret blend of 27 spices and is perfect for drinking, cooking, combining in cocktails. Home to B & B as well.

Enjoy!

Debra

Labor of Lunch Day!

Hello Foodies,

As everyone takes off from laboring today, there will be more time to focus on one labor of love--food! Many of you may find yourself at the BBQ, or maybe at a restaurant, or maybe on the phone ordering in, but we found ourselves at our neighbors-Charlotte and Lynne's home-for breakfast. But not just any breakfast, pancakes! I love pancakes! Boy, was I excited by this invite.

Look at what Charlotte cooked up at the griddle...

I bet you can almost smell them. These are the best pancakes I ever ate...whole wheat batter full of pecans, apples, and the perfect amount of cinnamon.




I don't know how up you are on your U.S. pancakeology, and since I don't want you to labor, here's a cheat sheet:

• Native Americans made nokehick that early white settlers later called no cakes
• In 1607, you could eat cornmeal pancakes called Indian cakes
• In 1740, you could eat buckwheat cakes introduced by the Dutch and formerly called panekoeken
• English settlers brought the feast of Pancake Tuesday
• In 1745, you could eat hoe cakes named because they were cooked on a flat hoe blade
• Another popular name was Johnnycake or journey cake mostly associated with Rhode Island

One of the reasons, I like pancakes so much is because I loved them as a child. I ate them for breakfast and lunch. I was lucky to be served good food for all meals but not all kids are as lucky as I was.

This is why lunches served at school are so important. Kids need real food at school and our representatives in Congress can make this happen. The Child Nutrition Act is up for reauthorization this fall, which means Congress will be debating whether it can afford to provide kids with food for lunches that benefits their health. This means not serving processed items that are currently dished up to 30 million kids across the country, and we wonder why one in five kids are classified as obese.

Slow Food USA has taken up this cause and has declared Labor Day as a national day of action. You can do your part by visiting their site where they have provided a petition for concerned citizens like yourself to sign.

Make this labor day a labor of lunch and please click here to sign.

Thank you!

Lisa

Julia Child, Josephine Baker, and a Slice of Paris!

Hello Foodies,

Stepping into the entry of a bistro I'm greeted by the jazzy sounds of Josephine Baker’s music and an aroma of steak frites and boeuf bourguignon. A stylish hostess - scarf delicately draped around her décolleté - leads us to our table by way of the busy bar. I overhear a gentleman give his order for a “seize” and a Bordeaux rouge.” In the dining room, Baker’s smooth voice subtly sings, “J’ai deux amours, mon pays et Paris”- I have two loves, my country and Paris.

A trendy Paris bistro? Mais non – just a slice of Paris in North Carolina. The Parisian-like restaurant, Print Works Bistro, in Greensboro, exudes cosmopolitan style with a mélange of modern character and classical food. And a prix fixe menu everyday.

It was especially exciting for us to visit Print Works during the month of August. Chef Bart Ortiz showcased his love of French cuisine with a menu honoring Julia Child, timed perfectly to coincide with the release of the movie, Julie & Julia. Quelle bonne chance for us on this summer night: a trendy bistro, Josephine Baker, and Julia Child all at once!

Signature Dishes

At Print Works, Chef Bart succeeds in serving up perfect French food - neither fussy nor pretentious - just simple and fabulous! He’s passionate about what he creates, like any successful chef must be. He uses fresh, seasonal and local products. “Our guests trust us too much for us to betray them with anything other than quality products and recipes,” the chef explains when he visits our table during the meal. “How is your dinner this evening?” he wants to know.

Appetizers of shrimp crêpes with Mornay Sauce - to die for - and Artichoke with Hollandaise were perfect beginnings. The tender, creamy crêpes made me think of watching “The French Chef” when I was younger. I could almost see Julia making the Mornay sauce on TV. The velvety hollandaise served à cote de the artichoke was luscious, a definite spot-on winner! I can say that because, long after the artichoke leaves lay depleted on my plate, I slathered more sauce on my crusty French bread. Can you do that? Slather hollandaise sauce on bread? If it’s this good – yes, you can.

The entrée of lemon and white wine baked flounder came highly recommended by the staff, but I had to pass this time for Julia’s signature dish - Boeuf Bourguignon. Paired with a bottle of Chateau Larose Trintaudon, Haut-Médoc Bordeaux (2004) and more French music playing in the background, a dining experience in this ambiance might maybe, just maybe for un moment, make you’ll feel you’re in Paris. Well…it’s worth a try!

Finishing Touches

The evening wouldn’t have been complete without the final pièce de résistance: individual chocolate almond cake – moist gateau-y perfection. Talented Chef Bart pares down the recipe from Julia Child’s book, Mastering the Art of French Cooking, to make small, individual cakes smothered with a rich ganache. A heavenly chocolate dessert! It was so good, that I ordered a second one “to go” for my Francophile and foodie friend, Allison. Odds are the chef will continue to offer the chocolate almond cake on his menu for several months. I want to go back soon, sit outside (see photo) with the chocolate desert on my fork and sip un café crème.

Print Works Bistro may not be in France, but the chef transports his diners to Paris with every forkful of fabulous French food. A meal here reaffirms my sisterhood with Julia Child and Josephine Baker; I Have Two Loves, My Country and Paris.

Enjoy!

Kathy

Chicken oysters and "idiots"

Hello Foodies,

Consider the chicken. No matter where your travels take you, you are sure to find chicken on the menu. In Italy, they cacciatore it. In Japan, they soy it. In the southern USA, they flour it and fry it and in Germany they brost it. In any case, it's a universal dish that's usually "safe" to order. Of course, no matter where you order it or how it's fixed, we all have our preferred piece. Breast? Leg? Thigh? Or perhaps, on the more wild side, the liver, heart. My mom tells me that she would fry the heart for me to snack on while she prepared her Sunday roasted chicken. I've out grown the heart, in my house it's now a cat-snack greeted with joyous meows and 'you'll be my friend forever' leg rubs.

What we don't normally consider about the chicken (at least in the US) is the breed. In France, breeds are extremely important and every region usually has it's preferred type. The chicken pin-up you see pictured here is the "gold-standard" Bresse chicken. This red, white and blue beauty is raised according to very strict standards and only in the area surrounding the town of Bourg-en-Bresse. When you are in France you may see poulet de Bresse on the menu followed by a very high price. And although I'm sure that many French have preferred pieces, usually you'll be served a half chicken with both dark and white meat.

The French, however, have one part of the chicken, the most tender and prized piece, that they have kept secret. I discovered it by chance one day at a classic French restaurant in Angers, Lucullus. On the menu the day we visited I saw poulet de Bresse and sot l'y laisse (pronounced soh lee less)offered as one of the specials of the day. I was intrigued. I had never heard of this type of 'preparation' and thought perhaps it was special to the Anjou region. I asked Mme. Houssay.

"No." she explained. "It is not a special preparation, it is the back of the chicken. Very tender, very special part, the absolute best part."

Hmm, the 'back' of the chicken, of course I had to try it. And she was right, these small oval pieces were melt-in-the-mouth tender and delicious. But I still wasn't sure exactly how this was the 'back' of the chicken and went on a little fact finding chicken chase. I discovered that these pieces are called the "oysters" in English. These small, very tender oysters are located in the hollow of the iliac bones just above the tail. As for the French name for this delicacy, sot l'y laisse, literally translated means "only an idiot leaves it there"...kinda tells you just how choice this part of the chicken is, doesn't it? So, the next time you're in France, scrutinize the menu and hope that you find sot l'y laisse featured the day you are there and of course you'll order it, won't you?

Enjoy!!

Debra

The One That Didn't Get Away!

Hello Foodies,

Last week I was in Marzamemi, near Siracusa in Sicily. Paradise.

For Andrea Camilleri’s book and TV series, Inspector Montalbano, aficionados, this is one of the locations on the show.

Commissario Montalbano.

If you remember from my last post, I was with my friends, Alessandro and Vesna, the newlyweds who asked TDF to plan their honeymoon. We stayed in a couple of charming mini-apartments in the old tonnara, only 10 meters from the sea. I have never seen a more star-filled sky than the one we enjoyed here!

Getting to more serious stuff...behind our apartments were a few interesting restaurants, including the renowned Taverna la Cialoma (on left) and La Balata, but I felt I needed to offer Alessandro and Vesna something really special.

So the next morning I woke up very early and went onto our terrace to look at the sea and just waited, and waited, and waited. Finally around 9:30 am, I saw the first fishing boat returning to the harbor. Although the harbor was literally less than 50 meters from my terrace, I ran because I wanted to be the first one to get to that boat. Using my still pretty good Sicilian dialect (I am from the west side of the Island in Palermo where we speak differently from the easterners), I asked the Captain what he had caught. His first answer was depressing: “Nothing, only some pesce di brodo", or fish only good to prepare a soup, meaning any type of fish that is full of bones, or fish with not enough meat, or not tasty enough, or all of these things put together. Having had previous experience with Sicilian fishermen, I told them how we came all the way from New York just to stay here and to taste the famous fish from Marzamemi and that my friends were just married, etc., etc.!

Finally, one of the other men said to the Captain, "C’mon, give it to him…” I was already excited because I knew what that meant. Then the captain uncovered a secret section of the boat, where there were, in order: the freshest triglie (mullet) I have ever seen (and later ate) in my life; a wonderful swordfish; and 2 boxes of gamberoni (shrimp). I almost fainted. I filled up two bags and ran back to the apartment shouting! I woke up my friends who thought I had gone crazy. I explained to them that I had just gotten the “special” fish, the ones that fisherman will not usually sell to you, either because it is already sold to the best restaurants who pay a lot of money for it, or because they keep it to eat themselves.

That night, we grilled the “special” fish on a barbecue, which I prepared using wood, adding only salmoriglio (a mixture of olive oil, fresh lemon, oregano, and salt). We drank an excellent local wine called, Inzolia, chilled to perfection. We were in heaven.

This time, I have to conclude with a, "Grazie, Capitano!"

Enjoy,

Giuseppe

Stay Close to AFAR!

Hello Foodies,

You all know that we are big proponents of experiential travel and we have found a kindred spirit. TDF is excited to tell you about a new travel magazine, called AFAR!

We enjoyed meeting the founders, Greg Sullivan and Joe Diaz, last week at an event promoting the pilot of a possible new travel show called, Confessions of a Travel Writer.

For these two, experiential travel is a way of life. The idea for a travel magazine came as they were enjoying a Kingfisher beer on a beach in Goa, India.


The mission for Afar is simple and wonderful - to inspire and guide those who travel the world seeking to connect with its people, experience their culture, and understand their perspectives.

When I asked Joe what the response has been like in launch week, he said, "The response to AFAR is overwhelming. It reinforces the notion that there is a need for a travel magazine like this in the marketplace--one that connects you to the people and cultures of the world. To see readers resonating with AFAR is quite rewarding."

Get your self a copy off a newstand for $4.99 as this new mag is scheduled to be published six times per year. Or get a free issue by visiting their website, click here. To continue with all things AFAR, don't forget to check out their blog, click here.

Enjoy,

Lisa

Bonjour to Breakfast and More in France

Hello Foodies,

If you’ve been to France, you know that in French culture, eating is not just about sustenance, it’s about total pleasure of the palate. That’s part of a joie de vivre and l'art de vivre that we Americans (most of us anyway) envy. You know, too, about Julia Child’s impact in the 60’s and 70’s on the American view of French food and style. And, unless you’ve been hiding in a cave, the re-impact she has on us today, thanks to Julie Powell, Nora Ephron, and Meryl Streep.

Like Julia, I had been singing the praises of “all things French” for years - the language, the culture, the people, and the food. But it wasn’t until a few years ago that I had my French lifestyle epiphany. Unlike Julia Child’s, my awakening didn’t occur in France, it was at home in the U.S.A with my colleague from France, Patricia, who was staying with me for a week. The mornings were rushed and I ate my breakfast (coffee and a granola bar) in the car while we were driving to work.

On the fourth day of her visit she said, “Kathy this is so wrong, what you’re doing each morning. You must take the time to enjoy your breakfast. I don’t understand this American way of eating breakfast in the car. This is not healthy. Each day is a new beginning – don’t you want to begin it with contemplation and enjoyment of your food?”

Her words made me realize all the more what I love about the French. It’s their ability to slow down their pace of life– at least much more than Americans – for the enjoyment and pleasure of food. I felt like I’d discovered the true soul of France through Patricia’s words.

As the success of the book and movie, "Julie and Julia" continues to draw attention to French food and France, we foodies at Tour de Forks are dishing about travel to “fork-friendly” France – Julia’s spiritual homeland. We’ve designed an epicurean tour of her Paris and Provence. From the city life of Paris to the peace and quiet of Provence, you can shift gears and open your senses to life in “la belle France.” In Paris, stay where Julia and her husband stayed, at the luxurious Pont Royal Hotel.

In Provence, visit her farmhouse home of La Pitchoune, now a cooking school run by Kathie Alex, “Cooking in France with Friends.” This kind of séjour inspires the pleasure of the palate, even when you’re back in the U.S. – because no matter where you are in the world, you can enjoy the infinite pleasures of the table. I’m trying to do just that, thanks to Patricia’s words of wisdom.

Merci mille fois to my friend Patricia for sending me the book, Petite philosophie du matin –pensées positives, which I translate as Positive Little Thoughts for Each Morning. Yes, I do read it every morning as I sit with my tasse de café. Still, I need many more trips to France to re-enforce my “positive thoughts.” See you in France and bon appétit!

Enjoy!

Kathy

P.S. Thank you to the Pont Royal and Kathie Alex for the photos.

Ladies United for the Preservation of Endangered Cocktails

Hello Foodies,

So, a few weeks ago, I stopped in at Drink, Boston’s celeb chef Barbara Lynch’s new temple to the cocktail. Ensconced in the city’s emerging Fort Point neighborhood, its brick and beamy, and its basement level ambiance gives a nod to the speakeasies of yore. I ordered my personal fave, a Sidecar and then observed. Cocktails here are a serious business. There is no scooping of cubes out of a bin; the barkeeps hack and crack ice off of a block. And there is all sorts of herb (all plucked from pots) muddling, mixing, stirring, and shaking going on. Quite a production, and fun to watch. Was it good? You betcha. Was it it the best I ever had? Nah…but it was in the top ten.

But, wait, there’s more: I was reintroduced to our bartender, one Misty Kalkofen, via a picture and article, in the August 09 issue of Bon Appetit. I garnered two interesting factoids - she is a former student at Harvard Divinity School, and she founded the Boston chapter of the Ladies United for the Preservation of Endangered Cocktails. Who knew there was such a thing? It celebrates the art of classic cocktails and raises money for Women’s charities. Kudos Ms. Kalkofen. She also shared a great quote: “Who loves not woman, wine and song remains a fool his whole life long.” – Martin Luther. Love it.

Check out its website www.lupec.org to learn what its about and lots of fascinating lore – and recipes. Of course, the Sidecar is included.

Sidecar

• 3/4 ounces Cointreau
• 3/4 ounces brandy
• 3/4 ounces lemon juice

In mixing glass or shaker filled with ice, combine Cointreau, brandy, and lemon juice, and shake vigorously. Wet rim of a 3- to 4-ounce cocktail glass and place on a lightly sugared plate. Strain liquor into the glass and serve.

Enjoy,

Connie Walsh