Friday, November 20, 2009


Chez Julia Child: La Pitchoune and Le Cordon Bleu

Hello Foodies,

Debra and I recently traveled through France to pave the way for our new tour, “A Taste of Julia Child’s Paris and Provence.” We were slightly surprised, after meeting with directors of various Offices of Tourism, lots of chefs and local farmers and producers, that we had to explain who Julia Child was. But, there were two exceptions: a formidable meeting with the current owner of “La Pitchoune” - where Julia lived in Provence and a delightful day at Le Cordon Bleu – the school where Julia began her love affair “with French food - the tastes, the processes, the history, the endless variation, the rigorous discipline, the creativity, the wonderful people, the equipment , the ritual.”

After two weeks of traveling in Paris, Marseille, Nice and small towns like Les Baux de Provence, Brignoles, Grasse, Mougins, La Napoule, Villeneuve-Loubet, we spent one rainy evening near the small town of Valbonne, at the residence of Kathie Alex, a casually sophisticated California chef who now calls” La Pitchoune” and France her home. “La Peetch,” as Julia so lovingly referred to it, is the Provencal residence built by Julia and her husband Paul. Now Kathie Alex offers weekly cooking classes there, www.cookingwithfriendsinfrance.com, where she shares techniques gleaned from Simone Beck, Julia Child’s very close friend and writing partner. We enjoyed a cup of tea with Kathie - sitting around the wooden dining room table, discussing topics and tales of the culinary kind: it was a “pinch me” moment. I was sitting in Julia Child’s house, the very same house where her overnight guests included James Beard and M.F.K. Fisher. A warm, welcoming home where culinary and personal memories became part of her book, My Life in France. A place I hope to come back to soon for a week’s worth of my own memorable culinary experiences

Just a few days later we were back in Paris at Le Cordon Bleu – where Julia said she was “in pure flavorful heaven.” Her first real course there was “made up of eleven former GI’s – like a boy’s club that she had invaded.” Our one-day class, “In Honor of Julia Child,” consisted of about 22 women and 3 men from Germany, Israel, England, United States and Spain - all eager to ask questions and learn more. What a day of learning, cooking and conversation this was!

In his cooking demonstration, Chef Frederic Lesourd, our chef and teacher for the day, joked with the audience and teased with his translator, Deborah Johnson (an enthusiastic transplanted American in Paris). While he paid homage to Julia Child’s culinary talents, he also lightened up the calories in Julia’s recipes. Acknowledging today’s enlightened palate, Chef Frederic stayed true to Cordon Bleu philosophy: he taught us techniques and encouraged us to experiment (à la Julia) by adding different ingredients and playing with the spices.

He deftly demonstrated how to make Petits Chaussons au Roquefort (pastry turnovers with Roquefort cheese), Navarin Printanier (lamb stew with fresh vegetables) and Mousseline au Chocolat (chocolate mousse). After lots of cuisine questions and answers, we were hustled into a working kitchen, where each of us had our own stations. We donned our Cordon Bleu aprons and slung a Cordon Bleu towel through the belt. Then we began trimming the fat from a lamb shoulder. The knives were so sharp; it made the job much easier than expected. (I bought some Wusthof knives after the class). At the suggestion of one of our classmates, the chef opened a bottle of red wine, then another…then another. We did manage to pour some of it into the Navarin Printanier.…..As Julia said, “What fun!”

For Julia Child, her classes at Le Cordon Bleu were “a catalyst.” My one-day course was an inspiration for me to return home and make Navarin Printanier chez moi – I had never made lamb before this experience. I invited friends for dinner, put on my Cordon Bleu apron and towel and began to play with spices, ingredients and my own ideas, using the techniques I learned from Chef Frederic. Et voila! – Navarin Printanier was a hit with my guests. (The recipe will be posted soon)

Like Julia Child, I felt like I was in pure flavorful heaven at Le Cordon Bleu. You can have the same fun experience when you sign up for our “A Taste of Julia Child’s Paris and Provence.” After a tour like this, you’ll come home with all types of culinary bragging rights – and your own Cordon Bleu apron and towel as souvenirs of an epicurean adventure in Julia Child’s footsteps. Bon appetit!

Enjoy!
Kathy


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